We boarded Frecciarossa’s High Speed Train at Bologna‘s Centrale Train Station for the 37-minute trip to Florence where we transferred to Trenitalia’s  Regional Veloce Tuscany Line for the final one hour leg to Pisa, most known for the 9-hectare (22 acre) Campo dei Miracoli.

Entering the walls of the Campo dei Miracoli, we were struck by the sheer beauty of the Duomo de Pisa, the Baptistery of St. John, the Tower of Pisa and the Camposanto. The grey marble and white stone facades glistened on manicured green grass against a backdrop of a perfectly blue sky. We immediately understood why it was so aptly named “Field of Miracles“!

Duomo di Santa Maria Assunta

The oldest structure in the Campo dei Miracoli, Duomo di Santa Maria Assunta, (commonly called Duomo di Pisa) was the first structure built on the Campo dei Miracoli. Construction began in 1063 and was completed in 1092, although most of it was destroyed by a fire in 1595. Renovations undertaken over the years since the fire, greatly expanded the cathedral’s footprint. Deemed a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it is a masterpiece of Pisan Romanesque era architecture.

The interior of the cathedral is lined with columns on both sides. On the far end is the apse with a magnificent mosaic contains a rendering of Saint John by the Italian painter Giovanni Cimabue as well as an ornately carved pulpit by Giovanni Pisano. Gold leaves on the ceiling were added in 1602, the work of Domenico and Bartolomeo Atticciati.

Galileo’s Lamp

At the center of the Duomo’s nave hung the Galileo Lamp. It was here that in 1581, a young 17-year old Galileo Galilei watched the suspended lamp swing back and forth leading to his discovery of time intervals and the development of the pendulum clock. The original smaller lamp is displayed in the Camposanto, having been replaced by a chandelier.

Battistero di San Giovanni

The Battistero di San Giovanni (Baptistery of St. John) was the second building to be built in the Campo dei Miracoli and is the largest baptistery in Italy. Standing 55m tall, it is only 4m shorter than the Tower of Pisa. Like the Tower, the Baptistery was built on sand and clay causing the structure to tilt at a 0.6° angle. Construction began in 1153 and was completed two hundred years later in 1363.

The design of the dome gives the Baptistery amazing acoustics. Every thirty minutes, an attendant sings to demonstrate the stunning effect of how the sound resonates.

Tower of Pisa

Considered one of the 7 Wonders of the World and among the most photographed landmarks, the Tower of Pisa is an architectural marvel. While many believe Galileo designed the tower, the actual architect was Bonanno Pisano (Galileo used it to conduct experiments). Standing 58m tall, 273 steps lead up to the observation deck providing a 360° panoramic view of the Campo dei Miracoli below. Construction of the tower began in 1173 and was completed in 1372. Known as the “Leaning Tower of Pisa” due to a 5° angle tilt, it is the most famous leaning tower, but not the only one in Italy or the oldest. The Garisemda Tower in Bologna, was built in 1119 and currently tilts at a 4° angle.

Camposanto Monumentale

Constructed in 1277, the Camposanto Monumental (Monumental Cemetery) was the last structure to be built on the Piazza del Duomo. Gothic porticoes border a lush green central courtyard. It is believed the Archbishop of Pisa, Ubaldo de’ Lanfranchi, shipped the sacred soil from Golgotha, the site where Christ was crucified, to Pisa during the 3rd Crusade.

The porticoes that run along the perimeter of the Camposanto are lined with tombs including those of the Medici family who ruled over the city, as well as other significant intellectual and political figures.

Camposanto Frescoes

Beautiful frescoes from the 14th century created by the artists Francesco Traini and Bonamico Buffalmacco frame the walls of the porticoes. Most of the frescoes were damaged during World War II. Beginning in the 1990s, the Opera della Primaziale Pisana began directing the restoration process  which continues to this day.

Watch The Restoration Artists At Work

One of the highlights when visiting the Camposanto is watching the artists working on scaffolds meticulously restoring the remaining frescoes. The patience, concentration and attention to detail is amazing.

View The Collection Of Roman Sarcophagi And Statutary

During the 14th century, a number of Roman sarcophagi and sculptures were transported to Pisa and placed in the Camposanto. Together, they formed one of the most important collections of ancient artwork in Europe and solidified Pisa role as a cultural center.

Visit The Museo dell’Opera del Duomo

Housed in a 15th century convent of the Capuchin sisters, the Museo dell’ Opera del Duomo consists of 26 sections and 380 displays. Priceless sculptures, masterpieces, and works that previously adorned the Duomo, Baptistery and Tower can be viewed in beautiful displays designed by the Florentine architects Natalini and Guicciardini and Magni.

Rare 12th and 14th century ornate liturgical manuscripts, books and artifacts from the Cathedral’s Treasury are on display as well.

The Museum also contains the massive bronze San Ranieri Doors. Created in 1180 by Bonanno Pisano, they were originally installed in the Duomo di Pisa. Twenty-four panels depict the images of the prophets as well as scenes from the lives of Jesus and the Virgin.

Angelo Caduto (The Fallen Angel)

Seemingly out of place among the white marble Romanesque, Byzantine and Gothic architecture of Campo dei Miracoli and leaving many tourists scratching their heads is the Angelo Caduto (the Fallen Angel). A huge bronze figure that rests on the lawn in front of the ticket office as if it fell from the sky was created in 2012 by the Polish sculptor Igor Mitoraj. It symbolizes the fragility of human life – the fine line between life and death.

Rich in history, there is much more Pisa. Take the time to explore outside the walls of the Campo dei Miracoli. Stroll along the banks of the River Arno, stop at the Church of the Spina di Pisa, take in the Piazza dei Cavalieri, visit the boutiques and quaint cafes lining Borgo Stretto.

Whether you are making a short day trip or spending a few days, Pisa’s Tuscan charm will not disappoint!

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