With seaside charm, a quaint old town, narrow meandering alleyways lined with trattorias, cafes, and local boutiques as well as Italy’s longest promenade … Bari has it all. Yet, this hidden gem along the Adriatic Sea is so often overlooked!

The medieval port city of Bari has a fascinating history dating to the Bronze Age. Over the centuries, it has been under Muslim, Roman, Spanish, Austrian, and French rule, before joining Italy in 1860, leaving it with a rich heritage to explore.

After checking in at the Hotel Bari Oriente, we couldn’t wait to see what all this amazing city has to offer!

Bari Vecchia

Our interest is in Bari Vecchia, the city’s Old Town. The name Bari Vecchia was created in 1813 to differentiate it from the “new city” of Bari. And the two couldn’t be more different! While Bari is the second largest city in Southern Italy and the capital of the Apulia region, Bari Vecchia is hidden within ancient walls and continues to preserve a unique charm.

Walking along the maze of alleyways, we are amazed at how the Barese (residents of Bari) have kept long-standing traditions alive even with the influx of tourists. Their daily lives seem to be grounded in the Italian philosophy of dolce far niente… enjoy the simple pleasures, savor every moment, and embrace a balanced lifestyle.

Homes are tucked away in beautifully decorated alleyways filled with green foliage and flowering pots. Laundry hanging out to dry and laced curtains in open doorways softly swaying in the breeze give a glimpse of a simpler lifestyle.

Piazza Ferrarese

Continuing our walk, we enter the Piazza Ferrarese, the main square of Bari Vecchia. Opened in 1612 and named for the 17th century merchant, Stefano Fabri de Ferrara, it overlooks the Porto Vecchio and the Emperor Augustus waterfront. Lined with bars and restaurants, the piazza is a popular gathering spot with a vibrant nightlife.

Basilica di San Nicola

The Basilica di San Nicola was constructed in 1087 and dedicated to Saint Nicholas, the patron saint of Bari, better known as Father Christmas for his generosity and secret gift-giving. The Basilica was originally built to house his remains which to this day are believed to perform miracles. The Feast of Saint Nicholas (Saint Nicholas Day) is held each year on December 6 when a flask is lowered to extract myrrh, a clear watery substance believed to exude from his relics.

The Basilica was built in the Romanesque style. The interior boasts beautiful arches leading to the main alter. The carved and gilded ceiling covering the central nave was created by Carlo Rosa in 1661.

Church of San Gregorio the Armenian

Dating to the 10th century, the Church of San Gregorio the Armenian is the oldest consecrated church in Bari. In 1089, all surrounding buildings were demolished to build the Basilica di San Nicola, however, the Church of San Gregorio was spared.

Cathedral of San Sabino

Constructed in the 12th century, the Cathedral of San Sabino is dedicated to Saint Sabinus, whose remains were brought to Bari in 844. It is the only church in Bari Vecchia with a tall bell tower.

Castello Normanno-Svevo di Bari

Dating to 1132, the Castello Normanno-Svevo was built by the Norman King Roger II. Also known as Houhenstaufen Castle, the massive fortress was surrounded by a deep moat, imposing wall and bastions. Restoration was completed in October 2017 and opened to the public as a museum.

Teatro Margherita

Originally a seafront theater built in 1912, the Teatro Margherita is easily recognized by its salmon-color. Today, it serves as the Bari Contemporary Art Museum hosting a number of exhibits and events including the annual Bari International Film & Television Festival.

Bari Vecchia – Steeped In Tradition

Bari Vecchia is steeped in traditions and habits handed down from generation to generation. Women gather in the alleyways making orecchiette by hand, an art learned from their mothers and grandmothers while carrying on casual conversations …

… while children play football in the piazzas.

To understand Bari Vecchia is to understand its culture. Residents continue a way of life seemingly impervious to the tourist around them.

Bari Vecchia At Night

As night unfolds, Bari Vecchia becomes magical. The lights of the promenade reflect in the harbor waters …

… while locals set up lawn chairs for an evening of conversation. Children run around playing games and laughing. It’s reminiscent of a small Italian village coming together to enjoy the evening.

Walking through the narrow alleyways dimly let by street lamps hung on the side of the buildings, we felt as if we were on a movie set. Unlike Rome, Naples, Venice or Florence all overrun with tourism, Bari has so far been spared making for an evening to be remembered.

Where To Eat In Bari

Famous for its street food of freshly made focaccia barese, handmade pasta, locally sourced olives, and fresh seafood you will not be lacking in choices.

For lunch, the choices are endless but the focaccia with prosciutto and fresh, natural ingredients stood out.

For dinner, we chose Ristorante Antò – Cucina & Sapori Tipici.  This family-owned restaurant is renowned for its authentic Italian cuisine. The spaghetti carbonara and risotto are amazing. Seated at an outdoor table, the evening ambiance of the old town complimented our meal. Don’t be surprised to have to wait for a table, but it is worth it!

Polignano a Mare, The Perfect Day Trip

No trip to Bari would be complete without visiting Polignano a Mare. This picturesque beach community with white-washed buildings is perched high above the Adriatic Sea offering some of the most amazing views. Walk down the stone path to the Lido Cala Paura Beach below for a delightful afternoon in the sun. Explore the caves that run under the cliff or dive off one of the outer rocks. Take care and wear water shoes or sandals as the beach is filled with stones and pebbles.

We took the InterCity train for the short 25 minute trip from Bari to the Polignano train station. From the station, it’s a short walk into town and the beaches. On average, 99 trains run daily between the two towns with the fares starting under €2.50.

If Bari hasn’t been on your travel plans, it certainly should be! 

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