As we walked out of Edinburgh’s Waverly Railway Station, our driver greeted us with a hearty “Fàilte gu Dùn Èideann! Welcome To Edinburgh!”.
Visiting this magical city is like having one foot in the present and the other deeply rooted in the past. Situated along the banks of the river Firth of Forth, this enchanting city is full of contrasts, history, and … proud Scots.
Scotland’s capital and second largest city, Edinburgh dates back to the 11th century. A UNESCO City of Literature as well as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it is filled with beautiful architecture, museums, quaint pubs, and intriguing castles. A city we couldn’t wait to explore!
Edinburgh’s Old Town & New Town
The moment you step foot in Edinburgh, you are captivated by its medieval Old Town. With its snickleways and cobbled streets, Edinburgh lives up to its Scottish nickname, Auld Reekie (Scot dialect for “Old Smoky”). The nickname dates back to the 16th century when smoke billowed from chimneys leaving the buildings with a charming, smoky patina.
This is truly a Charles Dickens storybook city come to life!
While the Old Town is replete with history, the resplendent New Town, with its wide boulevards and stately Georgian townhomes, lends a sense of understated elegance. Originally designed in 1767 as a residential area for the upper class, the New Town is home to the National Gallery of Scotland, the Royal Scottish Academy Building, the Scottish National Portrait Gallery as well as Edinburgh’s Main shopping streets.
After settling in to our Comely Bank Street flat, we set out to the nearby Waitrose for groceries. Nothing says Scotland more than seeing this ……
Edinburgh’s Royal Mile
Connecting the Edinburgh Castle on the west to the Palace of Holyrood on the east, Edinburgh’s Royal Mile is undoubtably the city’s most famous street. We found it odd they would use the term “mile” considering the UK and all of Europe are on the metric so we looked for an explanation. As it turns out, the street actually measures 1.81 km long which approximates one ‘Lang Scots’ mile (even though that outdated term hasn’t been used since the 18th century).
Now, that we have that pressing question answered, it was time to explore the Royal Mile. In actuality, it is divided into six distinct areas: Castlehill, Castle Esplanade, the Lawnmarket, High Street, Canongate, and Abbey Strand.
Castlehill
First off, we set out to Edinburgh Castle. Perched 135m atop an extinct volcano named Castlehill, the fortress has dominated the city’s skyline for centuries. It has served as a military fortress, royal residence, and even a prison. The main entrance to the Castle is located on the Castle Esplanade, a large open space previously used to burn witches at the stake but is now used for the annual Edinburgh Military Tattoo.
The 16th century Portcullis Gate serves as the main gateway into the castle. Constructed during the 16th century, the arched entry is flanked by statues of Robert The Bruce and William Wallace.
As we walked through the gate, we were overwhelmed by the sheer size of the fortress. At 35,737 square meters, the complex is one of the oldest and largest fortified structures in Europe. Following the curved road leads to the Mills Mount Battery and the 1 0’clock cannon which is fired daily. You can literally spend the better part of a day walking along the same footpaths used for centuries by kings, queens and the solders defending the castle during multiple sieges.
Victoria Street
Designed by Edinburgh architect Thomas Hamilton in 1829, Victoria Street is one of Edinburgh’s most iconic streets and also a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Named after Queen Victoria, the winding cobblestone lane connects the Grassmarket and Lawnmarket to the Royal Mile. Lined with an eclectic mix of boutique shops and galleries offering a treasure trove of vintage collectibles to contemporary crafts, the graceful curve of the street exudes a timeless charm.
High Street
The most popular section of the Royal Mile, High Street is lined with numerous shops, pubs and restaurants and anchored by St. Giles’ Cathedral. Stretching from the Lawnmarket to the Canongate, it is frequented by locals and visitors alike.
Canongate
Perhaps the least visited area of the Royal Mile, Canongate was separated from the city by a wall and gate until 1856. The World’s End, one of the oldest pubs in Edinburgh, is located at the corner of Jeffrey Street and the Royal Mile, the spot where the original gate once stood.
Also located along the Royal Mile in Canongate is the Cadenhead’s Whisky Shop, Scotland’s oldest independent bottler of whiskies, rums, and gins. Founded in 1842 as the William Cadenhead Limited, Wine and Spirits Merchants in Aberdeen, Scotland, this is definitely worth a visit – especially for any whisky connoisseur.
Palace of Holyrood
The official residence of the British monarch when in Scotland, Holyrood Palace is home to 900 years of royal history. ‘Holy Rood‘, the name of the original Abbey founded in 1128 by David I of Scotland, means ‘Holy Cross’. From Mary, Queen of Scots to Queen Elizabeth II, the Palace has been the site of numerous historic events. It was here that Queen Elizabeth II visited throughout her life and, upon her death on 8 September 2022, lay at rest in the Palace’s Throne Room. Today, the Palace continues to be used by King Charles when carrying out 0fficial engagements in Scotland.
Abbey Strand
Situated just outside the gates of Holyroodhouse Palace, is Abbey Strand. Built around 1490, the area has had a colorful history. Originally used during the medieval period as accommodations for the impoverished, its buildings were later repurposed as a hospital, a weapons store, lodgings for Mary, Queen of Scots’ large court, a brewery, and a debtors’ sanctuary. Today, Abbey Strand is home to the Learning Centre and a public garden.
The Scott Monument
Honoring Sir Walter Scott, one of Scotland’s most famous writers, the Scott Monument was completed in 1846. The iconic monument is decorated with carvings of the characters from various Scott novels while a white Carrara marble sculpture depicting Sir Scott with his dog, Maita is prominently displayed in its center. The monument’s dark, stained Binny sandstone and tiered spire resembles an ancient alien spaceship. The massive Victorian Gothic structure stands at over 61 meters tall. For an incredible 360º view of the city, climb the 287 steps up the spiral staircase to the observation deck (unfortunately, no lift is available).
Calton Hill
Like Castle Rock, Calton Hill is also a result of an extinct volcano. Dating to 1775, it is one of the oldest public parks in Britain. In addition to providing amazing views of Edinburgh Castle, Holyrood, and Arthur’s Seat, the park contains a cluster of monuments and historic buildings including …
The Old Observatory House & The City Observatory
Originally built as a family residence, the 18th century Old Observatory House was also used by astronomers until the City Observatory was built next to it in 1818. While the Old Observatory House is no longer open to the public, the City Observatory is and now houses the Collective Art Gallery.
The Nelson Monument
Completed in 1816 to commemorate Admiral Horatio Nelson who died at the Battle of Trafalgar in 1805, the monument stands an impressive 139 meters above sea level. In 1852, a large zinc and timber time ball was added. At one o’clock GMT each day, the ball was dropped which enabled captains of ships moored in the river Firth of Forth to set their navigational chronometers.
The Dugald Stewart Monument
Built in 1831, the monument commemorates the philosopher and mathematician Dugald Stewart. Considered one of the most important figures of the Scottish Enlightenment, the monument is modeled after the Greek monument of Lysicrates in Athens.
Explore The National Museum of Scotland
Exhibiting thousands of collections dating back to the year 900, the National Museum of Scotland is not to be missed! The Museum encompasses multiple galleries housed in two distinct architecturally different buildings. A new geometric designed contemporary building opened in 1998 was merged with the Victorian Venetian Renaissance building that opened in 1866 and housed the Royal Scottish Museum. Spanning over 13,000 square meters of public space, it is easy to spend several hours exploring the exhibits and history of Scotland.
The Raeburn
Built in 1832 as an elegant Georgian family home, The Raeburn has been transformed into an exquisite boutique hotel, bar and restaurant. Located in the classy Stockbridge area, The Raeburn is popular with affluent young professionals and locals alike.
The stylish Raeburn Bar is a lively hub featuring a casual, yet elegant environment.
The Restaurant at The Raeburn offers an all-encompassing menu. The traditional fish and chips served with cold beer was among our favorites.
Royal Yacht Britannia
No trip to Edinburgh would be complete without a tour of the Royal Yacht Britannia. Officially named HMY Britannia from 1953 to 1997, the ship served the Royal Family for 44 years, sailing over 1 million miles around the globe. With a crew of 250, the Britannia is like no other!
Within the yacht’s five decks, you can follow in the Queen’s footsteps through the Drawing Room …
The exquisite formal State Dining Room …
And, Queen Elizabeth’s and Prince Philip’s private State Apartments.
Steeped in over 1,500 years of history and legend, Scotland – and especially Edinburgh – make for the perfect vacation. From its stony, medieval architecture to its striking landscape, Edinburgh offers something for everyone.
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